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This wonderful American fish stew hails from California, originally made by Italian-American (and some say Portuguese) fisherman along San Francisco's coast. In any case, Cioppino means 'fish stew' in Genoese dialect. As with most fishermen stews, the ingredients aren't cast in stone--but rather a result of the day's cast. It's hard to beat James Beard's version in his New Fish Cookery, though you can certainly cut back on--or substitute for--the extravagance of seafood he recommends and still have a feast. Serve hot as a meal to 6-8, heavy on the red wine and garlic bread.
